Roasted chestnuts and shades of Autumn

I decided to go for an Autumn walk on Sunday and came across some lovely Autumn colours, a beautiful warm day and just perfect to stop off for some Roasted chestnuts at the Castagnata in Pontremoli on Sunday! 

CASTAGNATA PONTREMOLI 9TH OCTOBER

Every Sunday in the month of October in Pontremoli from 11am to 7pm there is the "Castagnata" an autumn chestnut festival where you can taste the local dishes made from chestnut flour like patona and frittelle di castagno as well as roasted chestnuts and local specialites like torte d’erbi and local wine tasting.

There is also a small artisan market.

Well worth a visit.

My home made pizza

Common belief is that the Italians invented the pizza but flat uneven bread cooked in mud ovens were used in ancient times.

Naples however created the familiar pizza as we know it now and has become one of the most famous dishes of Italy.

I love making home-made pizza, its tasty with simple ingredients although the secret lies in making the pizza dough.

Since moving to Italy I have grown to love cooking and choosing my fresh ingredients from my local verduraio and as I'm vegetarian for me it is  heaven.

Just recently I was given as a gift the new Vinicio Capossela CD - Marinai, Profeti e Balene. I certainly recommend it.  Capossela is known as the Tom Waits of Italy, his lyrics are very original, often inspired by literary sources such as John Fante, Geoffrey Chaucer , Oscar Wilde,Charles Bukowski and Samuel Taylor Coleridge among others.
His musical influences range from 19th century opera, Italian tarantella, Balkan gypsy music and is one of the most eclectic musicians in the Italian musical scene.
Marinai, Profeti e Balene is a double CD inspired by the classics of world literature about the sea and its frightful spawning of amazing creatures, human, animal, and mythological. The creativity and originality in this album is fabulous.

Views of Lunigiana

The beach

Generally the beaches in this area during the summer months are full of brightly coloured uniformed umbrellas and sun loungers in neat rows, owned by private companies that rent these to sunbathers at a rather expensive price and there are very few "free beaches" (In Liguria apparently out of 135 swimmable kilometres of beach, only 19km are free).
Ecco del Mare, Baia Blu, Fiaschino are all beautiful beaches but all private, for this reason I tend to either try and find a good free beach (punta corvo although has been closed recently it has re-opened) or go river bathing instead, or take a day trip further afield in search of a free beach.

Today I did however take a visit to the beach and it is slightly better and cheaper off season (less umbrellas and not so crowded) and far nicer than the during high season.

If you head for the beach leave out northern Tuscany beaches from Viareggio to Carrara and take trips to the Ligurian coast for example Lerici, Palmaria, Monterosso, Daiva Marina, Levanto, Sestri Levante.

House for sale

Some English friends of mine are selling their house in Pra di Preti which is about a 10 minute drive in the hillside above Pontremoli. They are selling to downgrade to a smaller property.
Beautiful property, needs some finishing work. If anyone is interested contact me for details.

Description:
Delightful house in stone of 200sq m with beautiful views of the mountainside of Lunigiana. The property can be divided in two separate apartments and features: 2 kitchens, two living rooms, 4 bedrooms, two bathrooms and balcony.
The property comes with 1.500sq m of land and a further stone rustico to be restored internally.

The property remains 10minutes away from the historical town of Pontremoli which offers a selection of shops, restaurants and cafe's, 40 minutes from the beaches of Lerici and the Cinque Terre and 1 hours drive from Pisa airport.
€ 210.000 negotiable

CASTELLI DI PACE Festival in Lunigiana 10-11 settembre 2011

This weekend I intend to help out at the festival "Castelli di Pace (Castles of Peace)  organised by a number of small comuni which form a part of a network for sustainability, which Legambiente in the Province of Massa-Carrara began in 2005 in Lunigiana. The festival aims to highlight the interconnections between peace, resources and energy, between globalization and local development, and aims to be the context where local meets global politics, where networks of small municipalities are consolidated on major issues, whereby the use of fair trade and sustainable use of resources are a prerequisite to ensure quality of life, social justice and peace.

The festival is held at the Borgo di Filetto, Villafranca in Lunigiana (MS)

For further info and details of events please visit www.castellidipace.it

www.facebook.com/pages/Castelli-di-Pace-Festival-in-Lunigiana-10-11-settembre-2011/157215327684264?sk=wall

Religious festivals

There are many religious festivals all around Italy infact every village has its "Festa della Madonna or Festa del Santo patrono ",  and are dedicated to the Madonna or Catholic Saint and this tradition is still maintained.

This one that I attended is celebrated on the second Sunday of August in a small village above Pontremoli.
Festivities kick off however on Saturday evening with a mass and a candle lit procession to the village cemetery, Sunday there is a mass in the morning followed by a procession in the afternoon whereby the Madonna of Caravaggio  is carried through the village on to a stone and blessed.

Most of the local population left this village after the war and emigrated to the UK or France or other parts of Italy to find work and the village becomes re-populated in the summer months, however they keep up this tradition with great enthusiasm and care and the day is spent with big family lunches and everyone dressed in their Sunday best.

There are a large variety of these festivals in Italy, and whether it is a large international event or a simple local village tradition dating back for centuries, they offer an interesting insight to the traditions and culture of the country.

End of summer

After a long summer of visits from family and friends, medieval festivals, markets, beaches, rivers, sightseeing, eating and ice-cream its time to settle back to my usual routine and start posting on my blog.
August here is full of medieval festivals held in many of the "borghi" in and around lunigiana, my favourites being Filetto, Ponticello and Pontremoli which are full of flag throwing, jugglers, dances and markets full of artisan craft stalls. Although there are many events held throughout the year August is always buzzing with folklore and traditional events.

Summer now however is drawing to an end and Pontremoli has returned to being very tranquil, and signs of autumn are approaching with flavours of funghi and chestnuts.

Fiume

In the rolling mountains and valleys of Lunigiana, after a good cappuccino, and a fabulous pasta for lunch with fresh Italian tomatoes, on this beautiful summer's day I couldn't resist going to the "fiume" (river) to catch some sun. Its fresh, with crystal clear water and silent with just the sound of flowing water, there is a little lake for river bathing to cool off in the fresh mountain water.
If you go further inland immersed in the rolling hills of Lunigiana you can find some impressive waterfalls and small lakes to swim in.

It's a good walk to my spot and the view of the "centro storico" and the castle is very picturesque and its moments like this that I know why I am here.

Houses in Tuscany and Liguria

 

www.progettiecase.it

If anyone is looking for a house in Italy please look at www.progettiecase.it. I do translation work for them occasionally and they are very good. I have been helping some English people that have had a lot of problems with an agency but this one is very thorough. If anyone needs any information or help just email me.

Bums on the news

Over cappuccino this morning I discussed Italian TV. Now I am not a great fan of Italian TV and very rarely watch it a part from perhaps Rai3, in fact I don't really watch TV in general not here or at home (London) and use my TV to watch films.  However yesterday evening I was zapping away having a nose and came upon the late news on TG4, quite amusing I have to say, a part from the usual stories about the weather, the models and where to party, this time there was "the prova costume" (getting ready for your bikini) directed of course to the ladies, after which they progressed to show a spot on bikinis showing very tanned ladies bums on the beach and the different style costumes always zooming in on the bum.

Now the quality of the news on rete 4 really is a bad joke, and indeed I know it's all to do with permatan B's television (Berlusconi) but it really does amaze me every time I watch the news on either Italia 1 or TG4 .....and Emilio Fede.... no I won't even go there.

No more Leaning Tower of Pisa underpants

Italian cities plan summit to banish trashy souvenirs

Leaning Tower of Pisa underpants the final straw for Tuscan officials long tormented by David statue's member on aprons

http://www.guardian.co.uk/world/2011/aug/04/italy-cities-tourism-souvenir-trade

"Gli Amor"

"Gli Amor" cakes are "molto buoni" made from a secret recipe that is handed down from generation to generation, made with a delicate cream between two wafers, they have a very distinctive and unique flavour.

They are to be found in my favorite place for my cappuccino which is an old cafe that dates back to 1842, it forms a part of the "antica pasticceria degli svizzeri". Art nouveau interior and many original features with fabulous cakes make it the perfect place for breakfast, though on a market day it can get quite hectic, you have to wait hours for a coffee and the fabulous "mela" cakes that I choose to have for breakfast are finished by 10.30, although I guess its fine for Italians that wouldn't dare to have a cappuccino after 11am.

In following this rule I have friends who after an evening meal in a restaurant order a cappuccino and are looked upon as "oh those English tourists" this expression also includes that they know nothing about food and no Italian that I know has ever eaten well in England. Although I have to admit the food here is delicious, healthy and probably the best in the world.... save the odd Chinese crispy duck (one thing I miss about London, Chinese here is like eating a bad Italian risotto). 

Talking about Italians eating habits everything seems to be centered around meal times. In small towns like this one everything closes at noon for a plate of pasta and an afternoon nap. However we do seem to have moved into the 21st century just recently as both the local supermarkets (Conad) stay open all day!!

A cappuccino and a book

There's nothing better than sitting at my favourite cafe sipping a cappuccino with a good book, I generally don't read books in Italian as laziness gets the better of me but this time I made an effort and finished reading “Io e Te” (me and you) by Niccolo' Ammaniti.

Its a short story about Lorenzo, a withdrawn neurotic fourteen year old who lies to his parents about going away on a school skiing trip and spends the week in a forgotten cellar. He plans to live his dream of complete isolation away from conflicts with his parents, his school friends and his make-believe life. Then he gets a visit from Olivia, his estranged half sister, and everything changes.

Written in Armmaniti's elegant style the book portrays the sense of isolation and alienation in adolescence and wanting to be loved. 

I have read a few books by Ammaniti now and although not his best it is certainly worth a read. They are easy and elegant reads and if you are learning Italian or looking for an Italian book thats not too challenging I recommend Ammaniti. (I also recommend it in English if you are looking for a good book).

I have set up the cappuccino e-store with all books Italian (and in English language) if you wish to browse.

His best book in my opinion is “Come Dio Comanda” (As God Commands) also made into a film by Gabriele Salvatores (I will also post about Italian films I like).

Il lavoro

While sipping my cappuccino this morning I am pondering over my work situation. I am not working at the moment having left my last job a week ago. I was doing the graphic design for a music festival, don't get me wrong it was a great 4 years, but just recently the association has incurred problems with finding funds and its time to move on.

Finding work is hard in Italy because unemployment is so high but of course don't let this put you off if you are thinking about moving to Italy. I live in the countryside and thankfully up until now have worked continuously and remember speaking English is a great advantage. Italians generally speak it badly and rarely goes beyond what they picked up at school. Speaking Italian is also an advantage and would you give more chance of finding work, so consider taking a course if your Italian isn't too good.

Also with the English education system you have more work experience than Italians and get through university much quicker, I know Italians who are still studying at 30.

Location is an important factor, most jobs are located in the larger cities of Milan, Rome, Florence or Bologna however I live in the countryside and have found work in nearby cities. Most jobs are on a fixed term contract (contratto a tempo determinato) so you always have the stress of whether the contract will be renewed and it seems difficult for companies to have employees in "regola".

One of the easiest options is teaching English, though if you are like me and teaching isn't for you then tourism, media and communication, international business and finance are the main job sectors open to foreigners. Searching through websites like www.jobrapido.it or www.bachecalavoro.com are good place to start as are employment agencies like www.manpower.it, www.randstad.it and www.giresearch.it.

Networking is also a good way of finding work especially in smaller towns, thats mainly how I have found work, through friends or meeting new people that have opened new doors for me.

Now lets see what happens, after the summer of course as usually everything seems to stop here in August and I am in no rush to get back to early morning get-ups.

Monday morning closures

There really isn't anything good about Mondays, my favourite coffee bar is closed and therefore need to head to one of the many other bars that don't do the fresh "brioche", which is a rather important aspect of my day I have to mention. 

In fact all shops a part from the foodie ones are closed so if you are looking for a new pair of shoes or need something for the home, relax have a cappuccino and wait until 4pm.

After my not so perfect cappuccino I headed for my favorite fruit and veg shop, I love it there, its usually full of  "signore" discussing what they are making and how, and the aroma of fresh basil. After picking up some fresh zucchini, salad, juicy tomatoes and raspberries I headed to the bread shop for some crispy panini and headed home for a zucchini frittata.

The food here reminds me of how lucky I am to be here.

Nobody in my country is foreign - Mamma Africa

The title isn't very Italian but its one of the festivals that I love here in this region. It was organised to bring together various ethnic backgrounds, cultures, religions and languages through dance, music and debates.
Here in this region there really isn't any integration and generally people tend to fear any other culture and see it as a threat.
Last year during the festival a group of  locals actually arrived at the festival and began singing the fascist song "faccetta nera" (little black face) which was a popular song of Italy's fascist regime. As I come from a multi-cultural city I was quite horrified, and can't quite understand as Italians are one of the biggest immigrants, having themselves immigrated to many parts of the world looking for work.

Sometimes while on a walk around town I come across various graffiti (see photo "go away foreigners"), however having said that most countries do have an element of racism and I am not seeking to tar an entire nation but I tend to think that its perhaps more this region mainly because immigration here is still in its infancy.
Its projects like Mamma Africa that can make a difference.

A cuppuccino

There is nothing like a cappuccino to start the day, that aromatic, frothy but creamy coffee that Italian bariste do so well (not all of them do it to perfection I might add),  its all about the quality of the coffee and the frothing of the milk is important, it needs to be frothy but creamy (no bubbles) and needs to sit perfectly on the edge of the cup. 

Today was market day, which is a big event in this town, usually everyone comes out for a spin around the market and is usually full of tablecloths going cheap, its all very busy and bustling and perfect to head for the old pasticceria in the piazza for a good cappuccino and spend a few hours watching the locals passing by (there are many sights to be seen but thats another storey).

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